404 fire kipper

Hello Andrey

You said that you measured this voltage drop to around 8V at the generator relay (68)
You measured this drop all the time or only if you press the starter knob?
As you changed your system voltage from 24 to 12 V you can't use the old generator (70), generator relay (68) and genarator regulator (69)
Did you also measured the voltage drop during starting
1. direct at the battery?
2. direct at the starter?
As you have changed the starter from 24V to 12V and the new starter has the same power as before than the current from battery is doubled as before. So on all old lines the voltage drop is also doubled. For this a 44 AH Battery is really to small.
To make it correct you have to change all main wiring to a bigger size to minimize the lost.

Which seal on "down pipe" you mean (photo or article no.)
 
Hello Jurgen,

You said that you measured this voltage drop to around 8V at the generator relay (68)
You measured this drop all the time or only if you press the starter knob?

yes..when starter is activated

As you changed your system voltage from 24 to 12 V you can't use the old generator (70), generator relay (68) and generator regulator (69)

Those parts are out of the Vehicle

Did you also measured the voltage drop during starting
1. direct at the battery?

10.5V

2. direct at the starter?

didn't check there

As you have changed the starter from 24V to 12V and the new starter has the same power as before than the current from battery is doubled as before. So on all old lines the voltage drop is also doubled. For this a 44 AH Battery is really to small. To make it correct you have to change all main wiring to a bigger size to minimize the lost.

New line from '+' distributor klemme (this bolted on middle of chassis) 100mm2 whit new cable shoes (pressed and soldered). Generally the original '+' lines at least 200mm2 , so very solid. Should be enough.

I'll inspect engine ground...actually where is this to look?



Which seal on "down pipe" you mean (photo or article no.)

im6214920081__60600.1675878189.jpg


Andrey
 
Hello All,

Yep...for limited time (before scrap them) I'll have:

-compressor, air pressure regulator, air defroster, air brake cylinder, pressure vessel, trailer air brakes regulator and other small bits....compressor works..;other bits...don't know.

- generator with cable, regulator, cut off relay, wind washer pump and bottle, fire signals/horn electrical box, electrical fuel pump

Andrey
 
Hello Andrey

please offer your obsolete parts here on "Biete" Forum https://www.unimog-community.de/phpBB3/biete-f32.html
Best make a photo of each part, give a price indication for each part and give contact details.
I think some parts you can sell.

The exhaust seal you can get for example from VK SARS BVBA (Belgium)
https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&sour...oQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0eKMnKbPj_ce4coHrZYVyv

Regarding electric
First you see battery is going down to 10,5 due to the high starter current. Better and/or bigger battery has less drop
Second as you not measured directly on the starter I think the main droß you have between battery and starter on plus side. And between battery, main switch (61) and ground.
I don't believe that you have 100mm² or 200mm² cables. !00mm² means 1.1cm diameter of the cooper line.
The standard cable main caable from battery to starter and from battery to main switch is 50mm².
The engine grounding is going via the engine and gearbox mounts.
 
Hallo Andrey
Please note our rules, every post starts with a nice greeting and ends with the signature of your name
H(Mod)
 
Hello All,

I put a line direct from battery thru relay and fuse and signal from ignition switch in order to power ign. coil. Truck starts easier, but still somewhere is massive voltage drop.

Good news is that there is back light switch on F/R lever and now I have working back light. I still should find brake light line and horn and I\m ready with the lights.

Andrey
 
Hello Andrey,

if you have the normal 404.1 main brake cylinder the switch for the brake light is at the back end of this cylinder.
Again give information about your voltage drop.
When you measured what voltage drop at which measurement point.
During starting of the motor a (small) voltage drop is normal but not massive
During engine running no voltage drop has to be mesured at your fuse.
Did you use still the resistor in front of your ignition coil at the ignition line?
 
Hello Jurgen,

When you measured what voltage drop at which measurement point.

unimog 1151.jpg

Practically at the starter , so no switches between.

During starting of the motor a (small) voltage drop is normal but not massive
During engine running no voltage drop has to be mesured at your fuse.

Did you use still the resistor in front of your ignition coil at the ignition line?

No. I remove it. According to transistor ignition module instruction - is no needed. But retrospective (now I'm thinking) problem was preexisting. The Slovenian grandpa (from whom I bought the truck), bypassed the resistor too and coil was connected directly to some '+' with power next to ign key (Klemme 15)

Andrey
 
Hi Andrey
so if I understand correct, you added now a new cable from battery + via a new relay and a new fuse direct to the + of ignition coil. The relay is triggered by a new cable direct from key switch (Klemme15) .
The cable between battery + and starter is still the original 50mm² cable.
So to see how the voltage drop is at the ignition coil you can measure this directly at the coil not on the point you showed above.
What value for the fuse you put in?
 
Hello Jurgen,

Yep I added relay and direct line, with no success..coil of the relay is still powered from ign. switch and voltage drop shut off the relay :lol: :lol: :lol: I remove the relay and replaced it with on/off switch....still engine starts when starter power is shut off. When engine is hot is not noticeable, because engine starts immediately , but when cold...just by inertia. I assume that I have problem in distributor too or related. I notice that 6-th cylinder is not working on idle. There is just no spark or very weak one. Change the spark plug, the boot...no change. I'm really start to annoy my self.


Andrey
 
Hello Andrey

first you must remove the large voltage drop during starting. This is quite not normal.
As you changed to 12V what new starter are you using?
You need a good 12V battery with 80AH or more and good plus and ground cable direct to the starter to check.
 
Hello Jurgen,

Unimog starter is unique and there is no 12V direct fitment. I dig internet for a week in every possible way and finally I read somewhere (maybe just here) , what starter will fit with some modification, which is strange as people are wandering from years for solution. I can put a smaller gasoline starter instead of diesel (they can be found everywhere), but the bolts are really pain to installed and that stopping me.

Any way stater rotate like crazy and I really doubt that the ground is bad...but I'll put additional ground to engine..ot replace a ground master switch.
 
Hello Andrey

you don't answered my question, or better what I really want to know.
What are the electrical parameter of your new starter?
And is the new starter turning the engine with the same speed as the original starter?
As the M180 and M130 motors are mainly used in 12V cars it must be possible to find a solution with less voltage drop.
 
Hello Jurgen,

Rated power of starter is 2,2kW which means...180A at minimum. Unimog M130 starter should be the same power ratings, but at 24V...so double less the Amperage.

Andrey
 
Hi

I found some articles saying Unimog starter is 4kW on 24V, and the starter that I put is 2.2kW at 12 Volts, so the same (almost) amperage.
 
Hello All,

it's raining out here, so no work outside. This days, the goal is to update ignition system. I was able to find some W113 distributor *cast iron one' and it\s looks like direct replacement of stock one. I bought new distributor cap and finger (this can be still found in normal auto parts reseller)...then the plans changed, as internal parts of distributor looks very similar to VW Golf 2 distributor and BMW M10 one that I have from previous projects. So I butchered all of them and make one compilation with w113 distributor body, VW hall sensor, BMW shaft and VW advance weights, but ditch the idea for now. Then I decide just to update existing system, I mean cap, finger and cables that I both and tonight I made this..

0-02-05-7518b49459b2825aa02c92952fa8c29f1e20458aa28c11efb773fa801ea2e943_a66979e0def846c3.jpg0-02-05-63ba722cdb253f0ca8b00b5c9aeb687f75fae5d222dd373476e8330ac6a0b730_8f55d89520f9e57.jpg0-02-05-0933027b4de0cdf4e5dc5068e5291eca7b3e00d58d3b9a4248fda5330902d788_a119dff85819cf0e.jpg
 
Hello All,

Of course it\s not going straight with ignition upgrade, so

- 1 cylinder is nearest to the distributor??
- distributor finger rotates clockwise???

Thanks for quick answers.
 
Du musst dich einloggen oder registrieren, um hier zu antworten.
Oben
Zurück