- 20. Juli 2002
- 15.044
- 18
- 38
- Membership number in the Unimog Veterans Club
- 1
- Member of the Unimog Museum Association
- Yes
404 fire kipper
- Ersteller Andrey Nikolov
- Erstellt am
Hello
I plaid this evening with idle ignition advance....try to rise idle RPM.
Unfortunately when I rise advance to 15 deg, the RPM's goes up, but engine is little bit 'shaky'.
When I set advance at previous 5deg, engine idles so smooth, that you can put a coin on valve cover
.
After I deal with lights...next mini project will be...maybe:
- power steering from 406, I have all components already
- relocate radiator expander tank
- re-rout cooling hoses and new thermostat body (in which can be put different elements...easy to find)
- new pulleys in order to rise rpm's at alternator
- maybe electrical cooling fan
I plaid this evening with idle ignition advance....try to rise idle RPM.
Unfortunately when I rise advance to 15 deg, the RPM's goes up, but engine is little bit 'shaky'.
When I set advance at previous 5deg, engine idles so smooth, that you can put a coin on valve cover
.After I deal with lights...next mini project will be...maybe:
- power steering from 406, I have all components already
- relocate radiator expander tank
- re-rout cooling hoses and new thermostat body (in which can be put different elements...easy to find)
- new pulleys in order to rise rpm's at alternator
- maybe electrical cooling fan
Hello,
some help needed
I can't figure out...how brakes lights work....which color cable goes back of the truck.
Why Bremslichtschalter ....sw/ro cables) ...both goes to Lichtschalter? What is the idea?
some help needed
I can't figure out...how brakes lights work....which color cable goes back of the truck.
Why Bremslichtschalter ....sw/ro cables) ...both goes to Lichtschalter? What is the idea?
Hallo Andrey,
Thers are two reasons, why the cable from brake switch goes to the main light switch.
1. The 404 was a military truck. Therefore it was necessary for some reason to switch the normal brake light completely off.
2. The 404 has normally a combined brake and turn light.
On your attached diagram the cable to the back is shown on right side "Steckdose 12 polig für Aufbau u. Schlußleuchten"
The brake / turn light right is contact "I" with green/red cable
The brake / turn light left is contact "B" with white/red cable
Thers are two reasons, why the cable from brake switch goes to the main light switch.
1. The 404 was a military truck. Therefore it was necessary for some reason to switch the normal brake light completely off.
2. The 404 has normally a combined brake and turn light.
On your attached diagram the cable to the back is shown on right side "Steckdose 12 polig für Aufbau u. Schlußleuchten"
The brake / turn light right is contact "I" with green/red cable
The brake / turn light left is contact "B" with white/red cable
Hello,
I have some experience with stand alone ECU's and couple of project during the years and more or less I know, how to create fuel/ignition tables and how to monitoring AFR (Lambda) and interpretate all this data. So to put fuel system from one engine to another and hope that will works properly.....hm.
Any way...this days I dig out an ancient AFR controller ..PLX is the brand...weld a bung on exhaust, assemble the system and start monitoring:
WITHOUT LAMBDA
Initially I run the engine without connecting 0-1V output of controller, so practically ECU works in some kind of limp mode (in case of some of the sensors are missing). ECU holds AFR around 12,5...relatively rich condition, almost in all RPM's
WITH LAMBDA
Quite responsive...didn't expect so.
On idle targets 14,7 - pretty stable
Obviously there is acceleration enrichments, slam the throttle and for second AFR goes to 10.5
There is 'overrun cut' ...when you release completely the throttle in high RPM's AFR shows LEAN for brief moment, which means that ECU cut the fuel
When you cruise for more that 3 seconds (constant throttle) it starts to target again 14,5 AFR
So surprisingly normal behavior of this 'ancient' VAG ECU.
Anhang anzeigen idle AFR.mp4
I have some experience with stand alone ECU's and couple of project during the years and more or less I know, how to create fuel/ignition tables and how to monitoring AFR (Lambda) and interpretate all this data. So to put fuel system from one engine to another and hope that will works properly.....hm.
Any way...this days I dig out an ancient AFR controller ..PLX is the brand...weld a bung on exhaust, assemble the system and start monitoring:
WITHOUT LAMBDA
Initially I run the engine without connecting 0-1V output of controller, so practically ECU works in some kind of limp mode (in case of some of the sensors are missing). ECU holds AFR around 12,5...relatively rich condition, almost in all RPM's
WITH LAMBDA
Quite responsive...didn't expect so.
On idle targets 14,7 - pretty stable
Obviously there is acceleration enrichments, slam the throttle and for second AFR goes to 10.5
There is 'overrun cut' ...when you release completely the throttle in high RPM's AFR shows LEAN for brief moment, which means that ECU cut the fuel
When you cruise for more that 3 seconds (constant throttle) it starts to target again 14,5 AFR
So surprisingly normal behavior of this 'ancient' VAG ECU.
Anhang anzeigen idle AFR.mp4
hallo
I aways know that if something work - don't touch it. But...the engine oil start to be 'milky'. I checked cylinders with camera and it's appear coolant leakage in 1-st cylinder. Hmmmmm ..... I go around this problem over a month, but today I remove the head. Everything seems to be ok...but all rocker arms are with pretty big wear. I've checked the camshaft lobes, they in specs. Faaaaaaaaa@# now I need to buy from somewhere 12 rockers. I\ve already bought head gasket set. Tomorrow I'll take the head to machine shop for resurface, valves etc. I
I aways know that if something work - don't touch it. But...the engine oil start to be 'milky'. I checked cylinders with camera and it's appear coolant leakage in 1-st cylinder. Hmmmmm ..... I go around this problem over a month, but today I remove the head. Everything seems to be ok...but all rocker arms are with pretty big wear. I've checked the camshaft lobes, they in specs. Faaaaaaaaa@# now I need to buy from somewhere 12 rockers. I\ve already bought head gasket set. Tomorrow I'll take the head to machine shop for resurface, valves etc. I
Hello
I still try to track cheap rocker arms, till I wait for machine shop to do the head. What is tourqe specs for the head?
I still try to track cheap rocker arms, till I wait for machine shop to do the head. What is tourqe specs for the head?
- 20. Juli 2002
- 15.044
- 18
- 38
- Membership number in the Unimog Veterans Club
- 1
- Member of the Unimog Museum Association
- Yes
Hello
in German, they are called Schlepphebel.
So you can find some offers, for example
Schlepphebel 1140550001
6x Schlepphebel
in German, they are called Schlepphebel.
So you can find some offers, for example
Schlepphebel 1140550001
6x Schlepphebel
Hallo
I've ordered Inlet valves and Schlepphebel's....any suggestion from where to find (best price) Exhaust valves and valve guides?
I've ordered Inlet valves and Schlepphebel's....any suggestion from where to find (best price) Exhaust valves and valve guides?
Hello All,
After 1000 Euro late , we have 12 new Valves, valve guide and rocker arms...dammm...I'm almost finished with installation of the head.
After 1000 Euro late , we have 12 new Valves, valve guide and rocker arms...dammm...I'm almost finished with installation of the head.
Hello,
How can adjust the clutch? Now on fully pressed clutch pedal, there is still little drag on gears
so:
1. should I remove a clutch lever and rotate it thot or two>
2...or there is some other magic ... including other adjustments?
Thanx in advance
How can adjust the clutch? Now on fully pressed clutch pedal, there is still little drag on gears
so:
1. should I remove a clutch lever and rotate it thot or two>
2...or there is some other magic ... including other adjustments?
Thanx in advance
Hallo Leute,
Today after a trip (without fan belt...otherwise the Mog can't pass 60 deg) water pump start to leak from drainage hole. So can you advise me of good shop for this part. It looks like mine is a newer model, w/o filling ports for oil.
Thanks in advance,
Today after a trip (without fan belt...otherwise the Mog can't pass 60 deg) water pump start to leak from drainage hole. So can you advise me of good shop for this part. It looks like mine is a newer model, w/o filling ports for oil.
Thanks in advance,
- 20. Juli 2002
- 15.044
- 18
- 38
- Membership number in the Unimog Veterans Club
- 1
- Member of the Unimog Museum Association
- Yes