404 fire kipper

Hello Andrey,
if the chain is worn and therefore too long, the timing marking on the sprocket does not match
 
Hello Helmut,

I was able to rotate the engine till TDC 1-st cylinder (6 Gang and some effort :sweat_smile: ). The mark of camshaft seems to be almost there, but the problem is, that the mark is behind 'the spoke' of timing gear, instead of opening ...like into Jurgen picture. So I can see the mark just with the phone switch to front camera...technology..ha-ha-ha. I wonder is this normal???

thanks
 
Hey Andrey,

i think this is not normal.
The timing gear is normally fixed in postion by a small feather on the camshaft. By this the timing gear can only mounted in one fixed position and I don't think that the delevoper designedthe marking behind a spoke
 
Hello All,

I unscrew the bolt of camshaft and seems to be ok...the key is there...I really don't want to remove the sprocket.

0-02-05-1cfe9068b4389ac51425b73bc263f76fd2dccb5abd9bc8b9bec44af8b4932090_8c1b4fa861df592b.jpg

The broken timing chain guide...It\s really rare and at least 200 Euro with long delivery, so I made one from Polyamid

IMG_0263.jpg

IMG_0260.jpg
 
Hello All,

Anyway, something is knocking inside the valve train.... :cry: :cry: :cry: I must remove the valve cover again and check the valves again.... or something else. Pity thing is, that I must drain the coolant every time in order to remove the cover

Thanks
 
hello all,

I find this in other tread

IMG_2898s.JPG


so taming mark can be behind timing gear spoke.

More disturbing is this
Anhang anzeigen tensioner.mp4

Normal???
 
Hello,

I\ve opened the tensioner, looks like this

20056433259_tensioner%20breakdown.JPG


accept ..ball is missing. I've cut an old bearing and used a ball to complete the system. Unfortunately the plastic cap is very tight and almost pressed fitting. Additional friction is added from inner surface of piston (rauf whit mark of drill bit) , which result in absent of movement of the ball. I reassembled the tensioner and valve cover, start the engine, but still there is knocking sound. Next step will be to make a new end cap with inner thread and to make fully mechanical tensioner.

Thanks

P.S and I still have not idea how this tensioner works...ball and cap are some kind of one way valve, the oil should come from some kind of oil storage/valley above the unit and somehow pumped thru tensioner
 
Hello All,

I've opened one more time the tensioner, replaced the ball with smaller one 4,5mm and it seems now tensioner works, It's interesting that the tensioner needs just 3 manual pumps and is filled immediately.

Thanks
 
Hello All,

I'm back...with new side project. I have done couple EFI conversion on bikes (most of them turbo)...last year I made Golf 2 turbo 4x4 2 liter....and so weiter project, from whom I save some of the parts from original 1.8mi engine. I know it's a wild guess, but I wonder ...can I put Mono Jetronic from Golf 2 to Unimog....just for the fun. And I did it. For my surprise it works amazingly well. Check it out
mono jetronik.jpg
Anhang anzeigen 0-02-05-63391c94b3ee45a7ed7f2909e0eac71c2166fe0d5e9a7491c2adc654519024b1_6699e369eba2c73a.mp4

Test will be continued
 
Hello All,

I made some tests tonight...seems to be OK.

Engine starts a bit slower compared with the carb...maybe one rotation more, but there is no annoying play with the choke and throttle., stable idle .....welcome to the late 80-ties

On 2-nd low gear I manage to go over some curbs on my street on idle - so idle is pretty stable. There is a small problem, as ECU take signal for RPM's from Verteiler and originally receives 2 pulses per crank rotation, but now there is 3. So engine probably idles at 750 rpm, but the ECU 'see' 1000rpm.

Which is ok, but the alternator makes just 12,5-12,8 Volts at this engine speed, so no normal charge. If I able to fight my laziness I'll make an smaller pulley for alternator.

Next step is to connect Lambda sensor. I bought a new one - 1 wire proper for this ECU , but probably for the test I'll connect Wideband sensor... I have some old PLX controller (left over for some old project) with display and 0-1V output.

If there is some normal AFR readings....Mono Jetronic will stay in the Unimog.

Please comment!
 
Hello,

I drove truck around my house this days...geht's gut, Tonight I decide to 'shoot' the ignition advance and I see 0deg on idle. Okey....so I play with Verteiler and made it 15 deg, but adjusting/fixing bracket should be rotate a little in order to fix the new position. So I put out the Verteiler unit adjusted the bracket and ...here we go again.....1 cylinder already not there...I should rearange all cables with one place again.

WTF...is going on? I have the feeling that every time when I remove the Verteiler, the drive for timing is rotate some how with 1 tooth???

Any suggestions?
 
Hello Hello

I fix the truck...it was my foult. I didn't attached Verteiler correctly .

I play with a little and the best/stable idle is at 5 deg.

Interesting is the way Jetronic controls the idle ignition advance . Vacuum line to Verteiler is controlled by solenoid. On 0 throttle solenoid is on and block vacuum to Verteiler, when throttle is applied solenoid shut off and vacuum is applied to Verteiler and respectively advanced ignition.....cool retro solution.

In next MonoJetronic models (golf 3, astra etc)...ignition is fully controlled by ECU (there is no weights and vacuum actuator in Verteiler)....just for the record.
 
Hello,

I need to address alternator. This morning I leave truck to idle for an hour and 2 thing happend:
- engine temp not surpass 65 deg
- battery is not charging properly
...after hour I shut down the engine - restarted again - then shut it down again and start to turn real slow. Check the voltage on battery 11.8V.

I look the possibility's ...smaller pulley to alternator...mmmm... current is 50mm, smaller then that is not good for the belt and power transfer. To relocate alternator further front and to drive him thru cooling fan belt as far as fan pully is bigger...to much wirk. Don't know really.
 
Guuden,

If there is still a DC Generator in the Mog, it needs more RPM to deliver electricity.
Bretter Change to an AC Typ. It will charge even at idle.
The temp may bie a prob of the thermostate. Does not close ore opens at too low temp.
Put it into water with a thermometer on a stove and see when it opens.
Should at 80° to 85°C.

Gut Mog!
Justus
 
Hello MagMog,

The truck is converted to 12V (starter and alternator.....and VAG Mono Einspritzung). The problem that ECU targets very low RPM as far as is for 4 Zylinder Engine instead of 6 and 'see's 1 impulse more per RPM, so probably idle RPM's are around 750. It's complicated to rise the idle RPM's with this very old systems, as far as they are based on TPS and RPM (Alpha N) and when you mechanically rising the idle, you should adjust the 0 point of TPS sensor too.....which I don't want to mess with...for now!

Options are:
- mechanically rise throttle and readjust TPS sensor
- make smaller alternator pulley
- relocate alternator further front in order to be driven from fan belt
- connect ECU to separate Hall sensor (different from those one in Verteiler) which reads 2 points/toots on crankshaft pulley
 
Hello

need some help. When I tried to 'optimize' electrical system, I disconnect a lot things ...fuse box. So now I need wiring diagram, but with colors marking of cables. For now I was able to restore blinker, Innerbeleuchtung, horn... I still need to do lights (low, high, Standlicht, Stop, rear light, Scheibenwischer...so weiter.

I made some upgrade too. I install combi schalter to the steering column (from 207, 308 etc vans from the 80-ties)

schalter.jpg
 
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